Banana Cake or Bust

Whether you approve or not, it's impossible not to put your faith and trust in strangers while traveling. Some backpackers probably do it more than others. I am likely one of those such backpackers.

When I arrive in Hue, I toppled off my bus, disoriented (it is always like this when arriving in a new city) and still sick. A Vietnamese guy found me, asked if I already had a place to stay, proceeded to tell me that he had just opened a new hostel one month ago, it was nice, had hot showers, was $5/night and included breakfast, and would I like him to take me there on his motorbike?

Yes. Yes, I would very much.

Within minutes we had arrived, and I was checked in to a bottom bunk bed, in a room, on a quiet street in Hue (pronounced “Way” with an “H”), a city known for the decaying and crumbling Citadel, a World Heritage Site and old capital of the Nguyen emperors. After a rest and lunch, I decided, I would find the Citadel – sniffles and all.

- - -

Well, plans never go as planned. Having just sat down and ordered my lunch, I watched another woman, about my age, walk in, sit down, and order her lunch. As no one seemed to be joining her, I walked over to introduce myself and see if she'd care for some company.

Eight hours later, I was hugging Jenny goodbye having had a ridiculously enriching conversation and feeling wholly content with the fact that we had detoured from our original plan to tour the Citadel together and instead went in search of banana cake.

Most days, my friends, banana cake and cool people definitely top ancient palaces and royal tombs.

- - -

The following day, I did make it to the Citadel to explore the Forbidden Purple City within the Imperial Enclosure. During the days of the emperor, this area was super duper exclusive to basically him, the royal concubines, and eunuchs. These days, the place is sprawling with tourists and the “walls come crumbling down” - and yet, discovering the beauty, design, and spectacular architecture amidst the gardens and ornate buildings is certainly part of the old city's ancient charm.

Slippy Days

As luck would have it, I found the most adorable restaurant and hostel in Son Trach village which had just opened the very day I arrived! I booked three nights at “A Vietnam Corner” and for my first meal I ordered the most wonderfully described meal on the menu - “A bowl of love.” It only made sense seeing as the owner, Henry, was so sweet and put every ounce of love he could muster into his food creations and his business.

As unluck would have it, I was getting sick. The weather in Phong Nha turned cool and rainy. Against my better judgment, I hopped back on “Silver Bullet” for Day 2 and returned to the national park to visit the Botanical Gardens. In the drizzle, I chose the longer three hour trek (not heeding the advice of the women at the entrance who warned “It's very slippy today!”), hiked through the jungle, got slightly lost, and finished with slick climb up a beautiful waterfall. Because of the weather, I didn't run into a single person on the trail. I paused, often, to listen to the gentle rain pitter-patter on the leaves and hear the birds call to one another. After several nights of sharing a dorm room with 6+ people, I treasure hours like this.

The dreary and cold weather combined with being sick forced me to turn the majority of my third day in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park into a rest day. I found myself a cozy spot at Bamboo Cafe and alternatively sipped hot “eggie coffees” (coffee with condensed milk and a sweet, whipped meringue topping) and cold fruit smoothies (ahhh, so good for a sore throat!) for several hours.

Since it was also my last evening in Phong Nha (I was eager to head south towards warmth!), I sat down for dinner at Henry's restaurant to order another “bowl of love.” I sat close to the only other table of diners at the restaurant – this may have had something to do with the fact that they happened to be three very handsome, very athletic looking gentlemen. Not wanting to interrupt (but really, definitely wanting to interrupt…) I was chuffed when one of the men turned around and struck up a conversation. I learned soon enough that the three of them were professional stunt men for the King Kong movie that was being filmed. As for the attractive black man that asked me my name? He was Samuel L. Jackson's stunt double.

Sore throat be damned, I hung out with the stunt crew, film crew and a handful of actors for a few hours that night, chatting around the bonfire and drinking a few beers. But, I had to catch another bus at 4:30AM the next morning, so I said adieu around 11:30PM. It wasn't until a few days later that I learned from another backpacker that Mr. Samuel L. Jackson himself turned up at midnight.

Underground Paradise

My overnight bus arrived in Son Trach village at 4:30 in the morning when the streets were still quiet and the sun had yet to rise. Two of my fellow bus riders and I hung around a closed hostel reception desk for a couple hours, only to learn when they opened at 7:00AM that the majority of the hostel beds and hotel rooms in Son Trach had been booked out months in advance. A giant crew from Los Angeles had practically taken over this small village in order to shoot a new King Kong movie in the nearby Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. Whatdya know, Hollywood was in town! Along with their movie star, Mr. Samuel L. Jackson.

Not one to waste time in a new town, I found a place to store my backpack and made fast friends with another American and two Dutch travelers. The four of us decided to rent motorbikes for the day and cruise around the 60km national park loop. I was given a beat up, dull gray scooter which I immediately dubbed, “Silver Bullet.” As this was my first time riding a scooter – EVER – I was given a two minute lesson, a helmet (it's against the law to ride a motorbike without one), and sent on my way with instructions to “just ask my friends” if I needed any additional assistance. I got the knack of it straight away, and shook my head in wonder after I realized that afternoon that the rental place didn't require us to sign any waivers, leave any form of identification, or even prove if we had a valid driver's license. The motorbikes were ours – all for a whopping 120,000 dong per day per person – the equivalent of about five bucks.

It took no time at all to be convinced that exploring the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park by scooter was the best way to go. As we drove, the jungle covered mountains began to spring up on both sides, and the closer we got to the park entrance, the taller they loomed. It's funny – the national park is actually known for their giant caves, which we planned to visit, but the beauty that surrounded us as we sped along on our motorbikes felt as though we were in an Avatar movie. Lush and green and smelling of wet earth. On the back of “Silver Bullet,” I simply beamed.

With several caves to visit, we picked Paradise Cave, one of the longest dry caves in the world, which was only recently opened to the public in 2011 after having been discovered by a local hunter/jungle expert several years prior. With such a tiny opening in which to enter the cave, it was an immediate shock to walk into an enormous, cathedral-like space that could comfortably fit twenty airplanes. Scattered throughout were giant stalagmites and stalactites that glowed a soft yellow from strategically placed high-powered lights. I was having trouble remembering how to differentiate the two “stalas” when an older British woman came to my rescue - “Stalac-TIT-es. Tit's sag. So, they're the one's the come from the top. You'll never forget the difference again!” No, I don't believe I will!

I slowly wandered the 1.5km wooden boardwalk through Paradise Cave (the entire cave is a whopping 31km long!) looking waaay up and all around at the incredible variety of limestone formations that had been created over millions and millions of years. A small river carved out this monstrous cave and rain water that trickled through the soft limestone of the mountain just dripped over, and over, and over, and over, and over (well, you get the picture), eventually creating stalagmites and stalactites as tall as a two story house and as wide as a king sized bed. One millimeter is formed every year – just ONE MILLIMETER. If that's not the definition of artistic patience and commitment, I don't know what is. Paradise Cave in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park was the first time that I felt truly at peace in Vietnam. The clean, cool, quiet of the cave had a deliciously calming effect. And, after what felt like one hour in the cave, I emerged – and discovered I'd been inside for three.

Observations

I've made a few observations during my time in Vietnam thus far:

1.) ALWAYS bring toilet paper and soap to the bathroom. It seems these rather common (or so I thought) bathroom staples are often insufficient or missing altogether…

2.) You are looked at with the same quizzical expression for not eating meat in Vietnam as you are for not eating meat in Wisconsin.

3.) Northern Vietnam in late February/early March does NOT feel like summer. At all.

4.) If you want to feel like a celebrity, ride on the back of a motorbike through a minority village when the kids get off school. You'll get more hellos, smiles, and high fives than you know how to handle.

5.) There are adorable, stray puppies everywhere. Don't become attached. You will want to bring one (or five) home with you.

6.) The Vietnamese tourists might wave you over with a camera in their hands. They don't want you to take their picture. They want to take a picture with you. So, practice your “peace” fingers.

Hazy Hype of Hanoi

I'm on an overnight bus from Hanoi, Vietnam to Phong Nha National Park. We should be there in about 10 hours. While the term “sleeper bus” indicates the potential to actually sleep at some point, it's not as easy as it sounds. The “bed” is just a tad wider than my bum. My feet are cramped in the cubby below the nearly horizontal “bed” of the Dutch lady in front of me while my knees bend to accommodate the day pack between my open legs. Vietnamese tourism advertises, “Save money on accommodation! Sleep on overnight bus!!” I'm not convinced.

The 20-something year old British girl at the front of the bus just whipped out a packet of pills from her rucksack. Probably Valium. It's become the norm here for tourists to sedate themselves on the long bus rides. I haven't hopped on the bandwagon...yet. But, I do have a travel-sized bottle of Baileys that I brought all the way from Wisconsin for a special occasion! Now seems a good a time as any.

Salute!

Despite my mild discomfort, this does give me some time to reflect on my first few days of international travel. I'm just so thankful they let me on the airplane! I received my visa approval letter via email as I approached the check-in desk at the San Francisco airport...talk about leaving things to the very last minute! But, after 24 hours of flying and layover-ing, I arrived in Hanoi and successfully made it past customs. Hallelujah!

My car waited for me upon arrival. I know that sounds fancy (and I had a fleeting celebrity moment when I saw my name written on a piece of paper with my very own driver to whisk me away to my six bed dorm room at the Central Hanoi Backpackers Hostel). Only $15 to avoid negotiating with potentially corrupt taxi drivers who wait like piranhas to overcharge jet-lagged foreigners.

I sat in the mini-van, wide eyed and wide earred, to the sights and sounds of this new city. The traffic alone is a feast for the senses. Horns blare and beep every second – not out of anger, but purely to say, “Hi there! I'm here! I'm coming up behind you! WATCH IT BUDDY!!” And, the scooters! A school of thousands swim the narrow streets. They weave and zoom between cars and people and buses – the traffic rules seem obsolete. It's nothing short of astonishing to see all the goods the Vietnamese balance on their scooters – enormous stacks of fresh eggs; dead pigs; baskets of produce; young children – often SEVERAL young children. The list goes on and on. When a young Vietnamese fellow offered to lend me his motorbike (he had two) so I could drive around the city for a few hours, I politely declined. I'd much prefer to live, thank you very much.

On my first full day in Hanoi, I resigned myself to navigating the sea of motorbikes and people on foot, intent on getting my bearings and shaking off my own jet-lag. I have an entire month in this country – no need to rush things. I visited the Temple of Literature and captured the cool stone creatures on the wall. While walking the streets I was forced to eat a “free” doughnut from a friendly, beaming Vietnamese woman only to receive a major pouty face when I refused to buy the doughnut filled plastic bag that she hung on my pinky finger. While the Hanoi is certainly exciting and vibrant, it's also loud, brash, and overwhelming. And, my heart and head yearned for quieter, more natural surroundings.

Sapa ~ Land of Mist & Colorful Culture

From the hustle and bustle of Hanoi, I took my first overnight bus to the town of Sapa in northern Vietnam. The taxi driver brought a group of us to the “Grand View Sapa Hotel.” Instead of the spectacular views we saw in the postcards, a thick layer of fog made our “Grand View” more of a “Gray View.” With no scenery to distract me, my first Sapa impressions were felt through my lack of proper winter attire. I had been warned there would be cooler, wet temperatures in the north. Thus, upon my arrival, I immediately purchased thick fleece socks, gloves, and at the suggestion of our tour guide, rented a pair of rubber rain boots for the trek.

Our group of fourteen international trekkers from Australia, Ireland, France and Italy, was led through the mist by a whole hoard of Vietnamese women dressed in traditional clothing. They wrapped bright, plaid scarves around their heads which flashed neon pinks and vibrant blues and greens. They carried woven baskets on their backs and made little goat figures and hearts out of the grasses and foliage as gifts for us. But, most importantly, they offered a helping hand when the mud on the trails became slick and slippery.

When I wasn't looking down at where to carefully plant my feet, I watched the fog thin and the breathtaking views of terraced rice fields came into full view. I breathed in deep. Over and over and over again. The extreme contrast of crazy Hanoi traffic and the calm of the rice paddies was a welcome change. And the 12km trek through the hills and down into the valley kept me warm and toasty.

There was no shortage of women and children trying to sell you their homemade handicrafts. Tiny hands belonging to children with big, dark chocolate brown eyes waved threaded bracelets, purses, scarves and jewelry. “Shopping?” “You buy from me?” “Cheaper, cheaper!”

Along the way I met Me-ahn, a 47 year old mother of three boys. She told me about the three different tribes in her small village – the Hmong, Zao, and Zi. She came from the Zao tribe as evidenced by her bright red headscarf with red tassels down the back. Each tribe spoke a different language and wore different clothing to distinguish themselves. Me-ahn walked with me all the way to the village where we were going to sleep for the night. She bought a large stick of sugarcane, broke it in two and gave me half for us to chew on and spit out as we walked. She claimed me as her “American daughter” and she my “Vietnamese mother” and insisted that I meet her 29 year old son! Who could resist a romantic match made in the hills of Sapa?

Eventually, the group landed in Ta Van, a small village in Sapa and trekked the last 200 meters up a nearly vertical hill to meet our homestay family. As part of our tour, we had the option to stay overnight in a Vietnamese family's home to experience their daily life. That evening, I sat around the fire they had built in the floor of their kitchen and spoke with the mother, Pang. Pang had learned English from the tourists staying at her home over the years. She was married at age 14 to her husband Thanh – a marriage arranged by both sets of parents. Now, at age 27, she has four young children. When I asked if they planned to have more, she said, “No, no – all finished!” while her husband piped up, “Yes! More! Ten more!” as he spread all ten of his fingers wide and held both hands high. Neither Pang nor Thanh went to school which means that they can neither read nor write making it very difficult for them to get jobs. But, together, they are determined to earn enough money to send all of their children to school. School is expensive, Pang explained – a cost of about 150,000 dong a week – about $6.75. And yet, despite their humble surroundings, the love of family and community is wholly apparent. The children get plenty of caresses and kisses from one another and their parents. And, Pang showed genuine enthusiasm and pleasure in the opportunity her family has to host 14+ travelers from all over the world – and event which takes place 3-4 times per week.

In the sleeping loft I shared with my fellow trekkers, I fell asleep to the giggles of children playing...and awoke to the same.

Time to Fly

It's nearly time to fly.  Fly to Vietnam.  I've booked my first hostel, I've secured my travel insurance - I am still waiting on my visa approval letter which the company has assured me I will receive today...

Let's hope it will!

Cause, I've bought the ticket.  And, I'm taking the ride!

What If?

Normally, I love me a Sunday morning. It feels oh-so-right to wake up slowly, ease myself out of bed, and stay in my pajamas until lunchtime. While I did stay in my pjs, my Sunday morning was not so enjoyable. I went to apply for my Vietnam tourist visa and discovered that Vietnam is on holiday. Like, the whole country is taking a couple weeks off to celebrate the New Year. Which, ordinarily, I am a huge proponent for celebrations and enjoying holidays. But, not when it means that immigration is closed until February 15^th and therefore means that I may not receive my visa approval letter on time.

What if Vietnam deports me on arrival?

I applied for the visa anyway. There was a computer error, and my payment didn't go through. I tried calling the 24/7 customer service hotline. Either the phone just kept ringing or when a rep did pick up, their English was mostly incomprehensible. So, I'd hang up and try again. No answer. I emailed. I let it go.

Six hours later, I got the response I needed. My approval letter would be sent by Monday, February 15^th. Just in time to print out and board my international flight. Fingers crossed they pull through for me! (And, I truly hope all the Vietnamese enjoy their New Year holiday.)

- - -

You know how worries can turn into a domino effect? While I worried about getting my visa approval letter on time, I started thinking about the vaccinations I never got. Before I left for California, I was so caught up in making sure I packed enough but not too much. I debated on whether to bring my MacBook Air or buy a cheap netbook in case of theft. How should I get my haircut before I go? Do I pack all three camera lenses or just one? What kind of travel insurance do I purchase?

Now that my trip has partially begun (still in the United States but with just over a week until I fly to Vietnam) the worries began to blow at me in powerful gusts.

What if I get scammed by taxi drivers on my first day in Hanoi?

What if I get lost in the big city?

What if I get really homesick?

What if I break a leg?

*What if I get bit by a monkey in the jungle and need to go to five separate hospitals to get treated?

*What if I get hit by a motorbike and wake up to discover that I've been robbed dry?

*Both true stories I've heard from travelers who went to Southeast Asia. (*GULP*)

It's enough “what ifs” to make me rethink my decision, cut my losses, and stay here in sunny California.

But, that's the thing about fear. If we let all those fearful “what ifs” take control, we won't decide to do much of anything. We'll stay holed up in our comfort zone. I know this for sure, because as often as I venture out of my box, I also long to stay shut up in it. And, there are times that I have chosen to stay right there in that box. Was it the right decision? At the time, maybe it was. But, I know this for sure:

Venturing into the unknown makes for one heck of an adventure.

And, I guess I'm seeking an adventure right now, in my 29^th year. And, while the “what ifs” can certainly be daunting, the “what ifs” can also be full of possibility:

What if I make the most incredible memories?

What if I see all the good in people?

What if I learn a new language?

What if I get bit by a zillion mosquitoes and can connect the dots into the Big Dipper on my thigh?

What if I eat the most incredible food?

What if I find romance?

What if I miss home often because I know how deeply I love my family and friends?

What if I have one heck of an adventure?

Wishing for Wavebows

We've had the most beautiful blue skies and sun shiny days since I arrived in California. I can't get enough of being outside and smelling the salty ocean air!

My cousin Alana and I went to the pier in Pacifica on my first day. The waves were GIANT. We strolled along the walkway and checked out the apartments that had nearly collapsed into the water when the cliffs they were built on crumbled. It had made national news!

On day 2, we drove further on down Hwy 1, chit chatting away until a particularly stunning scene stopped us mid-chatter. As we drove around a bend in the coastal road, we came upon four monks, their bright orange robes billowing in the wind as they stood on the cliff edge gazing at the horizon line where blue waters meets blue sky. I shrieked “Pull-over!” as my artist cousin murmured, “Can't pass up photo-opt of complimentary colors.”

Yet, instead of snapping a photo, I introduced myself. The four monks were from northern Thailand and visiting a friend in Santa Barbara. We exchanged hand shakes and more smiles than words. Soon we were off to Half Moon Bay.

After a belated birthday lunch at the cutest little garden cafe (where I got friendly with the chef and caught sneaking extra veggies from the waiter) Alana took me to the local acupuncturist where several of her paintings were on display. Alana creates some of the most stunning paintings I've ever seen (and no, I'm not just saying that because we are related) - Italian vineyards, hillside villages, and coastal scenes with such precise attention to detail and layered color. They are truly spectacular. Her husband, Mike, designs and makes the frames for the paintings which are works of art in and of themselves. Craftsmanship at its finest!

Without Alana's art, I wouldn't have learned about “wavebows.” Some time ago, Alana and Mike were on a hike and Alana captured a photo of moment-al awe. When the wind blows just right and the mist sprays just so and the sun shines from just the perfect angle, wavebows are made. A wavebow is like a rainbow, only it's seen above a wave when the mist and sun rays dance. After capturing this photo during that magical moment, Alana painted that very same scene. And, in doing so, has made me long to see my very own wavebow! Someday, I hoped.

Instead, my delight and awe in Mother Nature was very much satisfied as we watched the setting sun and captured some stellar shots during the “golden hour.”

The very next morning, I woke up and decided to go for a walk along the beach in Pacifica again. After passing a RV park, mobile home neighborhood, and junk car lot (all of which have some of the best ocean views...huh?), I found myself back near the pier.

And then…

The wind blew just right,

The mist sprayed just so,

And the sun shone from just the perfect angle.

And I watched wavebow after wavebow sparkle over the ocean. Some appeared for a few short moments above the waves only 100 feet in front of me. Others I watched in the distance – the rolling wave like a white stallion galloping to shore, it's mane a cascade of color, dripping red, orange, yellow, green and purple.

What a blessing to delight in a morning of wavebows!

Travel Magic

It's funny, all the things you begin to notice when you travel. I become more aware of my surroundings in general because everything is new and exciting! New colors, new sounds, new smells! I notice it all. Except when I'm caught up in conversation with my cousin Alana. Then, neither one of us notices anything, and we miss our exit…but it's all good.

The travel magic becomes more apparent too. Travel magic is what I call the coincidences, the God-winks, the jaw-drop moments that occur when you really notice everything going on around you. Like, here's a for instance: meeting Dan in line at the airport. He was just behind me carrying a sweet, multicolored snowboard case. We got to chatting, as you do, and it turns out he's on the same Frontier flight as me to Denver, CO. This brown haired and bearded chap made the minutes magically disappear as we waited to board our delayed flight. It's not every day you meet a Minnesotan native and start talking about spirituality, God/The Universe, yoga, and ecstatic dance. (Yeah! The guy has his own Youtube channel devoted to ecstatic dance! “Liberation through Movement” - check it out!) And therein begins the travel magic- and the inevitable increase of my Facebook friend's list.

Want further proof of travel magic? The TSA security guy told me he liked the color of my fleece. Yep. As I walked out of the scanner box the big, burly man says to me in a husky, deep voice, “Hey – that's a nice color on you” as he simultaneously waves me through to collect my stuff.

Travel magic – it happens all the time! And, it's good to be reminded of it when traveling doesn't seem so magical. (Like 9 hour airport layovers and upset stomachs on the airplane…)

But, in the end, I made it to San Francisco, CA. Stay tuned for more travel magic!

Like a River Flowing

Waking up to a pure, white landscape, the tree branches blanketed in snow, I have the most beautiful winter scene to remind myself of the home and people I love so much.

I can't complain one iota about being "stuck" in Eau Claire for an extra day. I got extra time with my mom and dad to play cribbage (well, lose at cribbage...) and even cozy snuggles with my mom this morning!

In two weeks, I'll arrive in Vietnam to begin a solo backpacking adventure around Southeast Asia for a few months! And, as I embark on this new journey, I reflect on this beautiful quote by Maya Angelou - a reminder that no matter where you go, be yourself and only yourself.